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Leerburg Questions & Answers
on Separation Anxiety

 

 Read an article -  "Dogs that Break Out of Dog Crates"

dog looking through screen

  1. What do you do with a dog with severe separation anxiety?

  2. My Lab/GSD is very dependent and has cost me a lot of money. Should I try medication?

  3. My 6 year old Chow can chew his way out of anything. He won't let me out of his sight when I am home. What can I do?

  4. My 6 year old foster Golden will rip the siding off my house if she is out longer than she wants to be. How can I fix this dog?

  5. Your advise worked. Thanks

  6. What should I do about a dog that hurts himself while in the crate?

  7. My dog follows me around the house and goes crazy when she hears my voice while she is in the crate. I want to fix this problem, but am not sure how seeing as she is a sensitive dog. Any advise?

  8. I have a very hard pup, but she freaks out whenever I leave, even if it is just for 5 minutes. How can I fix this or will she grow out of it?

  9. My 5 year old Lab X has recently started chewing holes in the walls when we are gone. What can I do?

  10. My dog has a serious whining problem when it comes to being fed and any time he gets a glimpse of me through our sliding glass door. Is this separation anxiety and is there a way for me to end it?

  11. I am moving away with my dog and I'm afraid he will have a hard time leaving my sister's dog. Do you have any advice how to proceed with the separation?

  12. We've tried everything to help our dog with separation anxiety, but nothing helps. Do you have any suggestions?

  13. I took in two sibbling pups who were very timid and afraid. They are both doing better, one more so than the other. At this point I'm wondering if separating them would be best or keeping them together.

Question:

Hi Ed,

I am a professional dog trainer of over 20 years here in Morrison, Colorado. I specialize in behavior issues, mostly aggression rehabilitation and training owners. I have read every page and every article regarding dog aggression on your site and I am so happy to read that you are also a 'reality' trainer. No fluff, no clickers, no treats, etc., just real training/behavior modification. I also send many of my clients to your site, since I just haven't taken the time that you have to put so much information in writing.

The reason for my email is that I haven't seen any information on severe separation anxiety.... or maybe I'm just not looking in the right place. Do you have any emails/articles/information on that subject? I am curious what you do to deal with a dog that has extreme separation anxiety. I know what I do and have done for the last 20 years and it has always worked, until this one particular dog. I would be more than happy to give you all of the details, the dog's history, etc., if you wish, but I would be so very appreciative if you could let me know if you have some information on serious separation anxiety.

Thank you so much in advance for your time and effort.

Suzi~

Answer:

Separation anxiety can be a pain. The fact is the dog has ghosts in its head and needs to learn to control it. In the end it must be trained to a level that it respects the owner's commands more than it fears the ghosts.

We recommend people condition the dog to the crate – and crate the dog 30 minutes before leaving and not let it out until 30 minutes after they return home. If the dog becomes a butt head in the crate we would use low level stimulation from a remote collar.

I do need to mention that while I completely agree with corrections in training (and you can read the article I wrote titled THE THEORY OF CORRECTIONS IN DOG TRAINING) I also agree with using markers and food rewards. It is a huge mistake to not use both in your training. I would recommend that you consider getting my basic dog obedience DVD and then incorporate these methods in your training. The bottom line is it will help your business.

The fact is there is only 4 ways to motivate a dog:

1- food
2- a prey item (toy)
3- handler reward (less than 2% of dogs will respond to this in a long term training program)
4- force

To say you don’t use food or prey puts you at a severe disadvantage and means you need to expand your range of training experience. If you want an eye opener – get the DVD I did titled BUILDING DRIVE AND FOCUS.


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Basic Dog Obedience


$40.00+s&h
Basic Dog Obedience DVD

 

 


Question about Nervous Dog:

I read your pages about dealing with an aggressive dog and what to ask you about my situation.
I have a three year old Lab/German Shepherd mix dog. She is a very loving dog to my roommate and me. She does a have very bad dependency problem which has cost me a lot of money. Most of the time when I leave her, she tries to break out of the house. She will chew on the fence, chew on the front door or anything else that could possible get her out. I have tried giving her a lot of exercise and have found it to be only a temporary fix. I can not leave her in my car or else she will chew on the seat belts of the car. I have had to replace virtually all of my seat belt once. I could live with this if it was the only problem. She also is nervous around new people. She has tried to nip at a few people lately. It seems like when ever a child or young adult gets to close (grabs her or wants to be close), she doesn't respond very well. This concerns me because I do want a child some day and I am afraid of what could happen.
I have tried to see how she is around young children. She is all right at first but she does get more and more nervous as time goes on. Lets put it this way... I'm glad I had her on a leash! I saw that she was starting to show her teeth so I took her out of the situation by taking her away from the people. It was weird. At first she was very happy and licking their faces and then it turned to aggression.
From reading a lot about this, it seems like most people try medication. Is this a real solution or does it just decrease the chances? I love this dog but don't want to forever live in fear of "what might happen."
Regards,
Ryan

Answer:

Here are the steps I would take:

1. IMany times dog like this lack a strong pack leader that they trust and feel comfortable with. They need to know the pack leader will protect them and take care of business in threatening situations. I did a DVD on this - ESTABLISHING PACK STRUCUTRE WITH THE FAMILY PET

2-This can only be accomplished through a strict obedience program. You can read about the steps of obedience on my web site in the description of my Basic Dog Obedience video.

3- I would not try medication

4-. I would have the dog wear a comfortable muzzle all the time I was not with it. We sell a couple of kinds.

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Muzzles

 

 


Question about Separation Anxiety:

Hi. We have a 6 year old Chow named Otis. He's been a very sweet loving affectionate dog with no problems all his life until recently. We moved into a new house about 6 months ago. The first thing we did was get an invisible pet fence and collar for him. That works great. When we're not home we leave him in the basement. It's never been a problem before, but about a month ago he started chewing up the basement door and frame. So we looped the wire for the invisible fence around the door. Then he chewed up the stairs. We tried muzzling him, but he could get it off. I finally broke down and got a crate because I knew this was the only answer. Well, he freaks out about the crate! He chews up the metal door to the point that he broke off a tooth. I've tried giving him bones while he's in it, but he's never been interested in any kind of chew toys, bones, or treats. He seems to have horrible separation anxiety and won't let me out of his sight when I'm home. I'm at my wits' end!!
Please help.
Cathy


Answer:

Once a dog like this has learned that escape is a viable option to being where he is you have a problem. I wish there were a simple solution - there is not. You could put a normal chain link kennel inside of the invisible-fenced area in your yard. Serious obedience training is also something that can work. By this I mean you really work to train the dog in obedience - it teaches the dog that there is a right and wrong in life. Some dogs make a connection to the escape mode and others do not.
If you would like to learn more about the principles of obedience training a dog, read the description for my Basic Dog Obedience video. You will probably find that you have not had the full picture on the steps of training a dog must go through before it can be considered fully trained. You can also read why I am not a fan of taking an untrained dog to obedience classes.

Drugs are also an option but what kind of life is that?

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Innotek In Ground Fencing System

Innotek In Ground Fencing System

 


Question about Separation Anxiety:

I'm pretty much at my wits end. I'm what I would consider an experienced dog person; my age, my life, etc.
I have a foster Golden; 6 yr old, SF...she came to me with some serious issues. She is storm phobic, has "seperation anxiety," etc. etc. A behavorist nitemare.
If left outside longer than she wishes, she will rip the siding off our house. The timing can be five minutes, or fifty...the trick is figuring out how long is too long...letting her in BEFORE the behavior starts.
She has a crate issue...she CAN jump a crate clear across a room; has broken teeth from fighting a crate. So crating isn't a first choice, but I can do it. While very well housebroken, she will have moments of panic, which is when she apparently shreds our blinds. Came home today to find the miniblinds shredded, where she apparently jumped on a chair to do. Two weeks ago, it was the blinds in our bedroom.
She escaped from our house one day, thru a window I had left cracked open...was missing for five days. All these incidences are rain related...NOT T-storm related!!
I have a DAP, which usually seems to work fairly well. The dog is also on antripylene and melatonian. We do NILIF; her OB skills are good. I will not use a pinch collar on her, as she was tied up with one in the basement of her previous home.
This dog was somewhat dog aggressive when she first came to me, but that has really resolved...perhaps the NILIF, more confidence?
The barking, tearing at the siding is better...we've blocked most of the outside of the house from her...and tried to reward good behavior, and I usually(granted, not always) make her sit and stay before I allow her back in the house.
She can and will jump our yard fences; she can open our gates(they are all wired shut now). I do have kennel runs I could lock her in when I am at work, but with her panic attacks, I am afraid of what she might do...I really don't want to come home and find she killed herself. However; rain is forecasted for several days and I can't afford to replace all our blinds!!!
Any suggestions would be appreciated...I didn't create this mess of a dog!!! But now I have to figure out how to fix her...I can accept I may never be able to place her, but I have to figure out how to live with her!!
Thanks!


Answer:

You are welcome to post to my web board. It has 9800 registered members and the board is very active.
I won't answer this because of your comment that you will not use prong collars – to me it indicates a people problem as much as a dog problem. Dogs like this need a prong collar, an electric collar and sound obedience.

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Prong Collars

Prong Collars

 


Comment:

Ed,

I know you hear this everyday, but I want to say THANK YOU for your advice on dealing with separation anxiety with my 1yo female JRT/Westie mix rescue.  She had severe separation anxiety (ripped up the carpet and destroyed the miniblinds inside of 2 hours).  At that time I began crating her but she was howling like a banshee anytime I left the room even for a second.

Your advice to me was to leave her in the crate 24/7 (short of taking her out of the crate on a lead for walks and interaction outside) until she learned to ignore the ghosts in her head and stop being stupid.  I have to admit, I thought this was pretty severe.  After all, I'd been taking her to work with me and spending hundreds of dollars on toys and snacks.. anything to make her happy becaue of her traumatic past.  She had me wrapped around her finger.  Despite my own weakness, I headed your advice and created some of my own self discipline following your instructions to the T. 

It took roughly 2 weeks for my dog to COMPLETELY turn her behavior around.  After two weeks of consistently leaving her in the crate in our great room when I was home and when I was away, she stopped whining all together.  She stopped ripping up her bedding and pulling her crate cover through the cage.  She could care less whether or not I was in the room or out of the room, made no difference to her, and miracle of all miracles, she stopped being a spaz in the crate/out of the crate when I came home after my being gone for extended periods of time.  Now, about 1.5 months after taking your advice and following through, this formerly neurotic hyper-subservient nutcase dog crates on command.  She even chooses her crate to hide special treats and guards the entrance of her crate from the other dog and cats that happen to be in the vicinity.  No longer does she always roll over on her back when we approach her.  Now she stands on all fours.  She knows she's not the boss, but she also knows she doesn't have to be weak to earn our love and attention.

All this to say, although some people may not agree with your non-coddling approach to the guardianship of canines, you could not have been more right on with my dog.  Thank you for helping me to help her regain her self confidence through my confidence in training her.

Cesar Milan has nothing on you Mr. Frawley.  You're our dog whisperer!  (attached please find a photo of my dogs Ginger (the one you helped sort out) and Foxy (chi/italian greyhound mix).

p.s., you can feel free to publish this letter on your website if you so desire.

With gratitude,

Heather

Ed's Comment:

I am glad this worked.

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Crates

Dog Crates

 


QUESTION on Separation Anxiety:

Hey Ed,

I was looking at your separation anxiety page, and, forgive me if I missed it, but I don't think I found an answer to this particular question.

What do you do with a dog that, when kenneled or left alone, is so panicked that he injures himself? I fostered a rescue dog at one point that would bloody himself trying to get out of a crate, and when left loose in a room alone for no more than 30 minutes, he went straight through an interior door and put gouges in the solid exterior door trying to get out. Your response to the first e-mail on the page sounds like you are saying to use a remote collar if the dog is being a "butt head" in the crate. Does this question fall into that category? Have you seen dogs like this before?

Thanks,
Carmelite

ANSWER:

I would do one of two things:

1- I would use one of the expensive aluminum dog crates that we sell. No dog can ever get out of these crates. I would keep this dog in the crate ALL THE TIME - his only time out of the crate would be to go outside.

2- I would use a NO-BARK Collar in the crate. This will stop it. It may take a while but it works.

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Tri Tronics Bark Limiter


$110.00+s&h
Tri-Tronics Bark Limiter

 

 


Question:

Hi,

I purchased a 4 year old Sch.3 female GSD from a very reputable kennel last March. The dog is wonderful, very obedient, works well for me on the Sch. field and really is about the sweetest dog. The problem I have is that she is very clingy and follows me from room to room when in the house. She will obey my husband and plays well when I'm not home. When she is in her crate she screeches if she hears my voice in the house. When letting her out of her crate she gets very vocal (screeches) and runs all around me. She has gotten worse the longer we've had her. When she's outside she will go from window to window looking for me as well.

I would like to correct this behavior and with her being sensitive would like to make sure I do it in the most effective, correct way.

Can you please explain what I should do do correct this?

Thank you.
Traci

Answer:

I own a dog very much like this. You need to make sure you are not accidentally reinforcing this behavior with emotional greetings and being excited yourself. This keeps the dog from being able to be calm and non emotional.

I ended up using a bark collar on my dog in a crate to teach her to be quiet, I have found that vocalizing seems to build the stressed behavior that goes along with separation anxiety. If she can learn to be quiet, being calm will follow naturally.

You can find information on No Bark Collars on my web site. I use them in my kennel every day. We put them on at night and take them off in the morning. I could not run my kennel without them There are a number of poor quality no bark collars on the market – most are not worth the shipping charges to get them mailed to you. I like the Tri Tronics collars.

I would start demanding obedience when coming out of the crate, and for the present time you might want to only take her out to go to the bathroom and back in. I would never let her out of the crate when she was being vocal or excited. I couldn't leave my dog with SA (Separation anxiety) outside by herself, because she would become frantic and it would undermine the behavior modification I was trying to do. It's never completely gone but it's much better. I think it may be something you are always managing to some extent. I think if you search our site you may find other info on SA.

I have found that the sensitive dogs are the most likely to have this problem, but you have to be firm about it or it can escalate into a real neuroses.

Hope this helps.


Question:

Hi,

I can't tell you what it means to me to have the invaluable free information on your website.  Some dog owners just don't have the funds for purchasing training tapes and videos and what is out there on the market is usually garbage anyway.  Thank God there is someone who knows dogs that we can all turn to.  I know you must have saved thousands of dogs just by having it there.  We humans just have no natural instincts for raising pack animals.  We need to be taught.

I have a 14 week old bijon/pekinese.  My boyfriend and I had no clue and zero knowledge of dogs when he decided to buy one from a pet store.  Now I know that was a bad idea (the pet store).  Can't tell anything about the pup that way, but she did not seem too timid nor too rambunctious so we bought her.  The first dog for both of us.  We wanted a small animal to keep in the house as I work at home.  She was 9 weeks when we bought her and couldn't hold her urine all night, so I put her crate in the bedroom with me.  She still whined in the crate but settled down when I hung my toe off the bed and stuck it in her crate.

The first real problems came when I tried to leave the house the first week for an hour and a half.  I left her in the living room with the TV on and a little water and small amount of kibble in the crate just in case.  When I came home, she had not only been whining the whole time but was absolutely stressed and frantic and out of her mind.  Truly traumatized from being left alone even with the TV on.  I took her out of her crate and talked to her softly but she shook and whined and was stressed for over 10 minutes before she settled down.  I read on your site that you can leave a dog all night alone in the garage while it is whining and it learns to be fine, but my dog was really stressed out after only an hour and a half of being alone--I mean not just regular howling or whining, but out of her gourd terrified at being left alone.

Now the crazy thing is, I've learned from reading every available article, Q&A, ebook and podcast on your site that she is a "hard" dog.  There is hardly any correction I can give her that she even pays attention to, much less has trouble bouncing back from.  The only corrections I give are for biting humans during play.  She must have been the pack leader of her litter because she play-bites awfully hard.  I hated to do as you said and grab her by the scruff of the neck and shake her, but it finally came to that.  She was still trying to bite me as I was shaking her.  I had to try this technique 3 separate times as she continued to bite afterward.  Each time I would shake harder, until I finally got a cry out of her.  She stopped biting me for a minute during play with her toys and then went back to biting me.  The fourth time I shook her, I think I must have choked her a little (by accident).  She was coughing and gagging for a couple minutes when I set her down (I felt very bad).  She then immediately went back to playing with her toys, but this time did not bite me.  (Finally!)

Now how can a dog like this be afraid of being left alone?  It's not like she is timid of anything.  No stranger or other dog makes her afraid (although I don't let her play with or go near any other dog besides my sister's puppy because they play well together).

I have tried to do as you say and get her accustomed to me leaving the room for a few minutes at a time.  After almost 5 weeks now, I can sometimes leave the room for 20 minutes as long as she can hear me in the other room, but when I go outside to take the trash cans out and she doesn't hear me in the house, she gets frantic after 5 minutes.  Will she grow out of this?

Thanks,
Janeen

Answer:

Ed has owned and trained German Shepherds for 45 years. In the past 30 years we have bred over 350 litters of working bloodline German Shepherds. We give this video to all of our puppy customers and we never get questions on how to raise a pup.

Read the description of this puppy DVD on my web site. Dog training is not rocket science its simple common sense ideas on how to handle and train a dog,  The DVD has over 3 hours of training information.

You should also consider the 4 hour DVD on Basic Dog Obedience - http://Leerburg.com/302.htm . The fact is you have much more to learn than your dog. I recommend the handlers start studying this DVD right away even though you won’t use some of this training material for several months (usually not until the pup is 4 to 6 months old).

I also recommend that you go to the web site and read the article on “Ed’s Philosophy of Dog Training.” I believe you will not only learn something about dog training, I hope you will also adopt the same philosophy on dog training.   http://leerburg.com/philosophy.htm

You can also do a search on our site for separation anxiety, there is a search tab on the navigation bar. 

Please visit our Discussion Forum.  There are thousands of members and many posts on every dog related topic imaginable.  You don’t have to register to read the material, but if you wish to post a question or reply you must go through the registration process.

There are a lot of posts there on separation anxiety as well.


QUESTION:

Hi Ed,

I've searched your website looking for some help.  I have a rather unusual problem.  I have a 5 year old black lab mix (I think she is part pit bull but she is mostly black lab.)  She has recently begun chewing on my walls.  Yup, chewing holes in the walls.  She only does it when I am not at home and I don't know how to correct this behavioral problem.  I've tried getting up early to take her for walks in the morning before I leave for work, and leaving toys and treats for her.  My neighbor comes over once a day to check on her and let her out, and she still is chewing holes in the walls.  It's been about once a week for the past two months.  What should I do?  Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

Thanks!

Charlie

ANSWER:

Charlie.

This is not rocket science.

Use a dog crate.


Question:

My 4 month old rottie might have picked up on his feeding schedule. He tends to make a big fuss 1/2 hour before feedings. Is there something I can do to have him wait patiently until feeding? He'll start whining non stop until I come out with his food bowl.

Actually, another problem we're having is that anytime he catches the slightest glimpse of me he starts to whine. Last weekend I stepped outside to get something from our outdoor fridge at about 12:30 am. He started whining nonstop until about 3 am. I think he only stopped because my mom went out to see what was wrong. He'll whine and whine and the minute I step outside he is quiet. He waits until I let him out or until I go back into the house. It has gotten to the point where I have to avoid walking past our glass door so he doesn't start crying.

Is this separation anxiety and is there a way for me to end it?

Thanks,
Collin

Answer:

The easiest way to stop this whining for feeding is to NEVER feed the dog when he is whining.  Dogs do what is reinforcing to them, so he has learned whining long enough gets you to bring his food, and also gets you to come outside.  You have been inadvertently rewarding him for doing this.

It can be the beginning of separation anxiety to let this behavior go on unchecked.  The only way to fix it is to NOT put the dog outside alone, he’s either in a crate or kennel where he will be quiet or think about a no bark collar.  He will then be corrected for vocalizing and will learn some self control. We use these daily on our own dogs, especially my very vocal young Malinois.  It took him about 30 minutes to figure out if he was quiet, everything was good. 


Question:

Hi,
My sister and I each have a german shepherd. I have a male dog and she has a female. They are now almost two years old and have been together forever. I'm moving away and would like to take my dog with me. I will still be in the same city so the dogs could see each other. Do you have any advice how to proceed with the separation?

Thanks,
Merima

Answer:

I would start with separating them for short periods of time and gradually lengthen the time they spend apart.

Depending on how attached they are to each other, this could take some time.
If the dogs are not crate trained already then I would do this first so you have a safe place to confine them during the process.

You can search the website for tips on crate training.


Question:

I have a 1 year old Springer spaniel with severe separation anxiety.

Every time he is put in his kennel he will defecate, urinate, hyper-salivate (puddles of saliva), howl and bark (non-stop) and he digs at the cage like he is trying to escape (he has destroyed a metal cage).

We always come home to a poopy wet mess. He has never liked being in the kennel, even as a new pup; but has always stayed in it when we are gone.

We have tried the kennel in every room in the house, stuck stuff with our scent in the cage (which he just pee's on), put on the radio or tv for noise, put him in at least a half hour before we leave and take him out a half hour after we come home, give him toys or bones to chew on, coax him in with treats and not force him in the cage, every medication you can think of and yes the shock collar. We have put him in the cage when we are home trying to get him used to it. We have also tried a whole slew of behavior modification techniques. It gets better for a few days and then it's back to the same old mess. When we are all home together he is very well behaved, it's the separation that is driving us nuts!!! We have consulted with our vet and tried all his suggestions and tried numerous things on the internet. Do you have any suggestions?

Thanks,
Emily

Answer:

I would suggest starting from square one, it’s probably your best option but will be very time consuming and you need to be absolutely committed to being consistent. Everything with dogs boils down to leadership and your dog needs very strict rules and boundaries.

Please read our article about becoming an effective pack leader.

The first sentence in this article says it all: “You can feed water and love your dog and he will like you but he very well may not respect you." 99% of all behavioral problems are a result of dogs not respecting their owners. This happens as a result of poor handling and/or poor training.

In place of using the crate with this dog, I may suggest you find a place in your house where you can tether him. Sometimes dogs that can’t be confined in a crate will accept being tethered, I used this technique with a dog I raised and had a lead attached to a foot rail near our breakfast bar. I put a special mat there for her to lie on, and eventually we started using the crate for a few moments at a time. At almost 4 years old this dog can now be crated but I do put a bark collar on her, in case she reverts to her old behavior. I don’t know what kind of collar you used on your dog but the only one I have found that works worth a darn is the Tritronics bark limiter. This article was written for people like yourself, people who have great intentions but not enough knowledge of pack structure. There are links within the article that will take you to other articles on my web site.

We also have a dvd called Pack Structure for the Family Dog there is helpful information on marker training and playing games with the crate to make it a positive instead of negative.

I hope this helps.


Question:

I volunteer at a shelter.  Three weeks ago, I brought a semi feral pup into my home.  Two weeks ago I brought home her brother because he was going to be euthanized.  They are about 5 to 7 months old. 

The female at this point lets me pet her, takes food from my hand, I got a collar on her, she even lets me rub her belly if I am on the floor or bed with her.  If I pick her up ( I have to sneak this) she will let me, but is very stiff. If I try to crate her, she will put her mouth on me.

The boy at this point will touch my hand with his nose only.  He will not take food from me, but is much better than when he came as he no longer cowers in the corner.  I did try to pet him, and he screamed as if in pain and pooped all over in fear.  He also, will not go in the crate.  But he is happy and loves to play with my other dogs, and with his sister.  He seems to want to trust me. 

My question is this.  Should I separate them, and perhaps put him in another foster home?  Or would that traumatize him again and set him back to the cowering time?  Or is it okay to leave him with his sister?  He seems to be learning to trust from watching her.  I am not experienced in training a dog, only in showing them affection and love.  The people at the shelter recommend that I separate them.  I really don’t know what to do.  He is so happy now. 

Answer:

I think both dogs would make more progress being worked with separately. He sounds like he is more comfortable with dogs than with humans, so until he is more socialized and relaxed with humans I would make everything he needs come from people (play, companionship, food, security, affection)  it may set him back at first to separate him, but unless he will be staying with his sister for the rest of his life then I would start working on his independence as soon as possible.

I would read this article and use these techniques (as best you can) to help rehabilitate these dogs. http://leerburg.com/groundwork.htm There are recommendations for other training materials in the article.



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When purchasing any product from Leerburg Enterprises, Inc. it is understood that any and all products sold by Leerburg Enterprises, Inc. are sold in Dunn County Wisconsin, USA. Any and all legal action taken against Leerburg Enterprises, Inc. concerning the purchase or use of these products must take place in Dunn County, Wisconsin. If customers do not agree with this policy they should not purchase Leerburg Ent. Inc. products.

Dog Training is never without risk of injury. Do not use any of the products sold by Leerburg Enterprises, Inc. without consulting a local professional. The training methods shown in the Leerburg Ent. Inc. DVD’s are meant to be used with a local instructor or trainer. Leerburg Enterprises, Inc. cannot be held responsible for accidents or injuries to humans and/or animals.

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